Catheads and Tails

The width is very important so all shrouds and backbraces will clear the hammock cranes, when there is some, each piece has two curves. The one that follows the sheer and the one that follows the line of planking. You have to allow for the thickness of the planking and the amount you are using for the tenon that fits between the frames, when laying out the width of the channel. Now comes another use of the dummy masts you made for the location of the partners. Set off the distance of the head51 and secure a line. A piece of cord will do fine. This you can use to check the width of the channel and also use when you layout the location of or for the deadeyes so no shroud is moved back to keep in line with the center of the mast and the location of the deadeye.

In some cases in smaller model woods yacht woods yacht s where the sheer is not so great, if any, the channel could have only one curve, that as the planking. The notches cut into the channels for the location of the deadeye strip is covered over by a piece of moulding. This is a simple design. I suppose some smaller craft would only have a half-round piece, but on larger model woods yacht woods yacht s a better design as in the drawing. When the time comes to secure this piece, you should use copper nails or short lengths of copper wire. The ends of the channels generally had a double reverse curve, sometimes just rounded and I suppose on smaller craft it was square. I suppose there were braces under the channel as shown in Longridge’s book “Anatomy of Nelson’s Model woods yacht woods yacht s”. But the Sovereign is twenty years earlier and it may have been that the braces were above the channel as shown on many model woods yacht s of this period.

The braces when placed above the channels were called brackets. Prior to the refitting out in 1805, the HMS Victory had brackets above the channels. About six on the fore with seven on the main and maybe four on the mizzen.

It may be a good time to mention this and maybe not, but it could be a good time to make a strip of moulding that crosses the upperdeck ports. It is at least twice as thick as the planking on either side. This is, of course, so the design can be seen. I clamp this piece to the board by using a deep throated clamp and an eraser. The eraser is the common type about one finger in thickness by two fingers in width by three fingers in length. The name is long since rubbed off but I think I got it at the local dime store. This way you can clamp over the finished moulding without causing damage.

Cutting the inside face of the channels to make tenons that will fit in between the frames may be ok for some but then you have to plank around them and that would take a lot of cutting and fitting. Many of the model woods yacht s have had their channels fastened by the use of steel pins (cut off brads or nails) making sure they are clean. Set into the channel first, they will make their own mark to show you their location on the hull. Might just point them on both ends. Like all dowels, the pins may take to the hull rather than the channel. I would say the number of pins to use would be four for the fore channel, five for the main channel and three for the mizzen channel. When placing the brackets, be sure to allow for the port lids who’s shape resembles a cupboard door. Keep this in mind when enlarging the rail. You have to be careful when planning the thickness of planking so you won’t end up with a rail in the waste too wide for good practice. Another check point is the distance between the deck of the beakhead and the top of the moulding.